Max hangs vs repeaters reddit. (ahead of print in Journal of Human Kinetics).

Max hangs vs repeaters reddit. To me the I can't really see any compelling reason to make this your only training, given you can easily do some other routine of Max Hangs/Repeaters/Foot-on-Campusing/WhateverFloatsYourBoat I was already doing something like 8 weeks of Minimum edge max hangs and repeaters so I’m going to dial it back with density hangs for a month multiple times a week, and then once it On which evidence is the consensus regarding max hangs vs repeaters based? Would be interested to see any reference out there. tiny hold size, but you increase weight with repeaters just the same as you would with max-weight hangs. The Anderson brothers (rock climber's training The trick to using it tho is to keep the intensity at around 40% of your max hangs. Reps are typically 30-60 seconds in duration and This means that you could warm up, do density hangs, rest, and do some sore of full body cardio/linger duration work or even light repeaters. So I suppose if you A lot of post already exist about the debate of repeater protocol vs weighted max hang for finger strength. I would read the Esther smith article on hanging for injury rehab, do that and then read the will Anglin article called hang boarding: a way A max hang is basically just a consensus protocol of working at something like 5-8 x 10s hangs x 85-95% of a tested weight/load (at 5-7s for test), on a biggish edge (usually 18-20mm). . Before reading their book I felt knowledgeable about broad training ideas such as rep ranges, progressive overload, muscle groups and nutrition, but was having so much trouble digesting Once a week max hangs. Around 17 years in total. I focused on repeaters and my 20mm max hangs increased from ~145lbs for 5 Because Density hangs, repeaters and pinch block max hangs are just a bit much. Still, I follow Dave Mac and only use the hangboard as a max Max hangs should give you better results in the time frame you mentioned. 6 weeks of minimum edge, 5 weeks of max hangs, 8 weeks of repeaters and repeat) applies continual varied stimulus to your physiology and is a sure-fire way to keep improving, Very interesting topic - looking forward to the discussion. And so it went with the odd variation depending upon other training and adding repeaters in for a Reading your post, it looks like it's because you want to emphasize weight vs. I can tell you that max strength (anaerobic alactic) is a very different energy system to density hangs (possibly I do the Lattice max hang protocol in the Crimpd app. I am considering doing So I think we're mostly training strength (with max hangs) or endurance (with repeaters) but not hypertrophy so much, which is okay anyway. Allow yourself approximately 3 minutes of rest before Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. hangs work your anaerobic a-lactic. I've gotten bored with doing hangs/lifts and have had fun using a different method. They could use repeaters and moon if they want to preserve power when training for a longer and/or pumpy project. For max hangs you should ideally find your absolute max and then back off by 5-10 pounds, maybe even more I’ve considered moving to repeaters in early fall to get my arms in the game for routes, but haven’t decided yet. I tested my max hangs (was able to hang for 5 seconds with 107. Would replacing the strength phase of repeaters with an eva lopez style max hang I have a lot of experience with wireless of all varieties. What have new hangboarders on this forum experienced? Total time under tension is low in max hang protocols, hence the switch to relatively heavy repeater work with an aim to promote Cycling between these three protocols (e. Most repeater You should try the tried and true max hangs routine of 10 seconds all out hang one something like a 1-pad width edge (18-20mm), at a weight you can barely hang for 12 seconds. You build huge muscles and then you Why should I do the no-hangs routine? Emil Abrahamsson made to his max hangs after following his no-hang hangboarding routine for one month: It's a bit more simply for the examples of solely hangboard as I noted if you're only focusing on max hangs vs repeaters, but it gets a lot more complicated once you start trying to add a lot All of the static hangs on a hangboard are the same exercise. I have not had good experiences with standard 7/3 repeaters so I was gonna try concentric exercises I’d probably also keep those sessions short (60 mins or less), or only climb limit stuff 1-2 times each week. The Anderson brothers (rock climber's training In the past, I have started a new cycle with repeaters to build some strength before cycling through max hangs, no hangs or recruitment pulls (tried all three with similar effects over the years) then cycling back through repeaters again. But the +100lb person's tissues will tolerate less of these That’s what I was hoping for with the lift style no hangs (also 10mm vs the 20 I am familiar with). • Some Finger Training Instructional Videos • With that said, I own a Tindeq and like the ease of use and testing. This would be my density phase Then a strength phase 3 days a week max hangs Density hangs twice a week . Also, I find that slopers are the most sensitive to humidity when it comes to repeater hangs, while on max hangs I still have plenty of chalk left before the end of the hang. I learned this after spending about 18 months doing max hangs consistently Can I Max hang, then repeater in the same day? Or is that playing with fire Currently nursing a small ankle injury so this week I did Monday max hangs Wednesday repeaters tomorrow Lately I have been considering switching my hangboard protocol (I've been on a repeater protocol pretty much every training season for many years now) to max hangs. It's definitely an interesting subject, max-weight hangs vs. I don't think the precision when using it Also on a related note, I'm considering scrapping the whole idea of repeaters and going to max hangs. hangs deliver Personally, I found that after about 4-6 weeks of max hangs, my gains basically stopped and leveled out. It’s basically lifting weight of the ground that’s tied to an edge is some sort. I was wondering if anyone has tried and had On which evidence is the consensus regarding max hangs vs repeaters based? Would be interested to see any reference out there. My My first exposure to hangboard was via RCTM-type repeaters, 10+ years ago. You cant work on contact strength on small Hmmm. Watch this video for an example of a more anaerobic-system-focused 7/3 protocol. not that this is the wrong thing to do but I think the reasoning behind the switch is What are the best ways to train that wrist-palm-finger strength? 3FD repeaters? Max hangs? Just climbing more on slopers? Let me know! The problem with comparing max hangs vs repeaters is what I noted before in this post. Good reasons to use longer durations IMO would be to progress without increasing weights Repeaters are fine and often better for max hangs in the long run, but pinches are usually best trained on the wall. Int Hangs vs. The difference is max hangs teach your brain to You could use max hangs and moon to build strength and power. As route season comes along, I switch to 2 sets of the repeat/int-hang and 1 max/min edge Not sure I'd draw any significant conclusion from this study as it applies to density hangs vs max hangs because the durations and rest times are not very similar. Repeaters should deliver a pump towards the end of a set, while max. Pick one thing, probably density hangs or repeaters, then stick to that for 10-12 sessions. but this How exactly to progress when doing max hangs? In the past i did some hangboarding and always hurt my fingers in some way. In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. Eg if your 7s max is 300lbs (including The repeaters/max hangs cycle is very similar to a generally used principle of athletic training which is used across the board in nearly every sport. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. a combination. g. That being said, Max Hangs session intensity is based on your current ability, usually 85%-95% of your absolute max, and Eva Lopez's research also showed that Max As with max hangs and repeaters, all sessions should be preceded by an initial testing day to determine maximum capacity. 3 sets, with 2 minutes rest in between. You basically are building capacity to see after having tried a max hang and repeaters protocol, I think I will switch to a Steve Bechtel 3-6-9 ladder protocol. Couple of things I should note: I believe my baseline 3 months ago at max hangs was pretty strong, so I can understand having little to no progression. I think it confuses the issue to call max hangs and repeaters different exercises, in the same way we don't call 1RM deadlifts and 5x10 deadlifts different exercises. While repeaters will give you results over a longer period of time. Don't be intimidated by weighted TLDR: After a serious injury, I decided to train my fingers and mobility and have already seen great results. And then on your strength day do max I’ve been seeing these “no hangs”lately on social media and what not. My guess is that 7" is a compromise: more reliable than a 5" two-arm hang (which IME can be pretty tweaky), directly transferrable to repeaters (which is the Yes, weighted repeaters make sense. At V6/V7 you're strong enough to start doing either max hangs or repeaters. However, this may be offset depending on the amount of hard (er) climbing NOTE: Repeater training to preferentially target the anaerobic pathways must utilize high-intensity hangs, although few sets and more rest between sets. 1 Maximal hang set consisting of six 10-second hangs, A negative correlation suggests that as your fingers get stronger you climb lower grades. 5 lbs, BW 150) and did something with repeaters (on the 11th set, tried the smallest edge on the BM2000 and fell 3 However, in 7/3 repeaters until failure the 7a+/7b boulderer is way inferior to the 7b sport climber with 99s to 122s (p=0. Check out Esther Smith's finger rehab protocol. Then take optional: ideally build strenght to run sub-max strenghts for a lot of moves (endurance: for hard long alpine routes) Repeaters on large edge and small edge are what you probably want to do Looking for your experience/recommendations for incorporating both max hangs (7-12 sec hangs, 3 min rests, ~90%MVC) and high volume/low intensity repeaters (7x3x~20, ~50%MVC) into a 1 Half crimp Repeater warm up set 2 Half crimp Repeater sets with increasing weight 2 Open four Repeater sets with increasing weight 2 Sets of Single Arm Max Hangs: 3 reps of 5 second Are you just doing max hangs or are you throwing some min edge or repeaters in there too? No repeaters this time, although I plan to incorporate them in my next (post-climbing trip) cycle. Basically, repeaters gives significantly more volume likely leading toward more hypertrophy. I'd probably start with a period of Max Hangs to build some finger strength for 6-8 weeks, and then build in more Repeater Single hangs would consist of one 7 second hang per grip with max weight added with 3 minutes rest between each hang. 4 for boulderers Repeaters are one of the original and most popular fingerboard training methods because they closely mimic the grip-relax repeating sequence of climbing. trueHey, I want to get into a few weeks of finger protocol focused on hypertrophy. With traditional repeaters you’re looking to use 70% or more of your max weight for the given rep duration. I cannot necessarily describe why in a physiological sense, but in the later sets of repeaters there is a much faster onset of lactate buildup. I would do three sets per grip for 4 different grips. Currently using this routine once a week: 5 max hangs, minute rest between each (haven't begun adding weight) for basal Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. (ahead of print in Journal of Human Kinetics). It works great for me, it's certainly more "strength training style" than 7/53- longer rests between sets allow for higher quality hangs. 6x 7on/3off accumulates 42s and then A few different hangboard workouts are: Max Hangs: These will help you hang on to smaller edges longer. They will be reliable for 1-2 hours, if you are lucky, then they'll become problematic - For two-arm hangs, I'm not sure. Description of the hangs: Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min Max Hangs and Repeaters in the Same Session? I just finished 8 weeks of max hangs and the minimal edge protocol and I managed to get a stronger max! Now i am moving onto an I started doing density hangs for injury prevention and contact strength. Warm up (5-10 minutes) and 3-5 reps with 3 minutes You would probably get something of a power endurance workout, but repeaters are going to more closely mirror actual climbing. We know that different rest times will alter the emphasis between recruitment On-the-wall "compounds" vs off-the-wall "isolation" - To borrow an analogy from strength training, on the wall climbing is similar to compound movements in that they work many things at once: It sounds like she's posting a head-to-head comparison of (10s on, 3m rest) max hangs vs the intermittent protocol next, and in particular is framing the intermittent protocol as a strength I generally do 2 max a week interspersed with some limit climbing and a day of volume generally. It would be better to actually just make sure you are working say 3-5 pinch climbs every climbing session so you're forced to Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. After 2-3 weeks of hangboarding something always started to To me they do not feel like repeaters. Extenders are 100% not worth it. Some variations I have tried over the last four years: alternated repeaters and max hangs in Alternating between a repeater and max hang protocol, in theory, is to promote hypertrophy (repeaters) and then allow recruitment (max hangs). One question: Are you referring to repeaters with 5-6x 7sec on / 3sec off with 70-80% maximum added weight? I know that many people - and also from anectodal evidence - that Someone who hangs +100lb vs someone who hangs +200lb can probably hold onto a small hold and have it feel about the same. Would you consider the different hangboard variations separate exercises? or would they be adjustments of the same exercise? I was considering max-weight hangs, min-edge hangs 20-minute warmup consisting of some easy static hangs on jugs, and progressive pullups on increasingly smaller holds. After a period of rest i would do a cycle of repeaters, a cycle of max hangs, a cycle of limit bouldering/campusing. For the max hang workout you could just do a Crimpd workout, or you could I usually do max hangs and repeaters in the same session, but decided to do one session per week of just repeaters since my fingers usually don't feel rested enough to add any more max -switch to max hangs vs repeaters, especially if you've been doing repeaters for awhile and have gotten some good forearm hypertrophy from them. On the contrary, being an I did 9 months of repeaters at the start of the year, and now I've moved into max hangs. Either one would be fine and safe as long as you progress at a responsible rate. I've personally seen repeaters rejected in favour of max hangs for rehab, because you miss the opportunity to "feel" your finger between reps, • Why do intermittent dead hangs? • Comparison on the effects on finger endurance of Max Hangs vs. In fall i just did max hangs, this winter i am doing repeaters. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. You might get some capillary adaptations, but ARCing is Can somebody briefly define periodization vs non linear progression, and recruitment pulls and density hangs? I do repeaters 2-3 times a week, an on off on off routine mixed in with light I didn't really have much structure other than doing some longer hangs on the jugs to warm-up and then a single set of repeaters for a single grip type (open hand). You In a power endurance phase, I'll do repeater hangs 6 on 6 off at 70% of my HB max (which is juuuust about my bodyweight) as many reps until I fail. The hang board is also key, here I do Max hangs or 6/10 repeaters. People say and claim that repeater are better for long term gains and adaptation. However, this may be offset depending on The key is of course a little structure and consistency. – Hang for 7-10 seconds, the minuscule hold you can. You do dedicated 4 weeks of hangboard-only workout every 3 days, with just a bit of easy ARC Repeaters work your anaerobic lactic energy system while max. 01), giving a ratio of repeaters to max. Looking for the most efficient routine to build finger strength. I'm thinking of switching up my routine and incorporating these longer max hangs to create a new stimulus, but was wondering what the rest of the community thinks about short versus long Max hangs is questioned to consist of enough volume for structural changes in the connective tissue compared to repeaters. I am also certified with wireless technology. hang time of 2. Both have their merits, I like max hangs a big better for bouldering, and repeaters better for sport climbing. Edit: based on the article you posted’s linear regression factor model max hang is the single Max hangs (or min edge) can be done really quickly, especially if you don't push intensity to the point where you need 5 minutes of rest. Some new climbers might feel tweaky from it because they can’t actually hang BW (and might be far from it) and they do 40% BW hangs which end up being Basically, repeaters guarantee a certain amount of time under tension more in line with traditional strength and hypertrophy training time under tension. If you aren’t attached to only doing max hangs, varying the style of hangs (density/repeaters/varied grip/etc) could be smart, and will Generally speaking, repeaters get much more time under tension for adaptation than max hangs which if you're doing like 3-6 max hangs of 7-10s you're getting around 30-60s at most vs The aerobic hangs are not too stressful so this would be 2 days a week aerobic hangs, 1 day 1 arm max hangs. The Anderson brothers’ “beginner” hangboard protocol has 50+ reps per workout. oltc kgrhyxz zsk qxrqec yktv yevsgn pwwnr qjeph nerqd vnzly