American alpine institute alpine ice. This is an intensive course pr.

American alpine institute alpine ice. Baker towers over northwest Washington and southern British Columbia. In this program you will review and refresh those glacier and alpine rock skills and advance your climbing to the next level. Rainier takes participants up an outstanding glacier route that requires a wide array of mountain skills. However, in most of these, the skills are built to be user friendly for recreational climbers. Alpine climbing, in general, is: 1) a long way from the trailhead; 2) any combination of rock, snow, glacier, and ice; and 3) lots of moderately technical terrain (up to 5. In addition, we operate in Wrangell-St Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 2 Part 2 of AAI’s four-part mountain leadership series introduces rock and alpine ice leadership skills. Expedition Climbs - All Locations Our expeditions are longer trips, often in remote locations and usually with the principal goal of ascending major peaks. The American Alpine Institute offers a wide array of custom rock and ice climbing, skiing, mountaineering, cold weather, high altitude and high-angle rescue training options for government and military officials. The first ascent was done by Bill Joiner, Leslie Nelson and Dave Seman in May 1974. Baker. Location: North Cascades and Central Washington Season: December - March Length: 1 day and up Cost: Varies Difficulty Climbing, Mountaineering, and Skiing Programs in Washington State An Alpine Training Ground Unmatched in the United States Like our well-known Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership - Part 1, this course introduces snow, ice, and alpine rock climbing skills at a moderate difficulty level. Offerings include introductory courses; lead-climbing instruction; big-wall and aid climbing; self-rescue; and Warriors' Way clinics. Climbers descend the Kautz Glacier Photo by Alasdair Turner On summit day, most climbers will start very early. A skill-development expedition for beginner to intermediate climbers to the remote corners of the St. Freeze the Current Price for the Following Year Prices increase every year on November 1st. Pitching out this steep section is important because it is very strenuous and there are no options for shelter before reaching West Rib Camp III at Private Guided Programs - All Locations Custom Adventures Led by Mountain Professionals American Alpine Institute's Private Guided Programs are collaborations between you and our guides. As you will soon see, the cruxes of the route are not Program Finder By Location United States - Alaska United States - Washington United States - California United States - Nevada United States - Colorado United States - Utah Canada - British Columbia South America - Argentina South America - Bolivia South America - Ecuador South America - Patagonia South America - Peru Europe - Alps and Caucasus Asia - Nepal and Tibet Asia - Laos, Thailand Jul 15, 2008 · -- Here is a short video on how to place an ice axe as a deadman. We do have an After Hours return, please call or email if this is needed. Prepare for Denali or mountains worldwide from AAI with over 35 years of experience. Glacier Peak Climb and Skills Clinic At 10,525-feet tall, Glacier Peak is not only Washington State's fourth tallest volcano, it is also the State's most remote. Courses are open to the public, making them Like our well-known Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership - Part 1, this course introduces snow, ice, and alpine rock climbing skills at a moderate difficulty level. Climbing routes on these peaks range from scrambles to technical rock climbs. American Alpine Institute began guiding expeditions in 1976, our second year of operation, and rapidly gained a reputation for running ambitious and well-organized climbs. Make yourself a pair of these and come climb with us! The classic alpine routes of the North Cascades offer tremendous variety and contrast. McKinley) and in the Ruth Gorge, Little Switzerland, and every other major climbing destination. Due to its simplicity, it climbs all angles of ice with much more fluidity and consistency than other modern tools. This terrain is the perfect outdoor classrooms for teaching alpine ice climbing, one of the fundamental skills of mountaineering. This introductory backpacking course is designed for hikers and outdoor lovers who have no prior experience camping overnight in the wilderness. 6). Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Alpine Ice Climbing Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 2 Mt. Glove systems for mountaineering and alpinism must offer a balance between waterproofness, dexterity, durability, and other qualities. Additionally, AAI is capable of building customized private courses for individuals and groups, including both adults and youth climbers. View our online rental policies here. American Alpine Institute is anequal opportunity provider and an authorized permitteein the public lands in which it operates. Offered in both summer and winter. World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. Glacier Peak is a stunning mountain, surrounded by other stunning Group Summit Climbs Skills and Summits for All Ability Levels Group Summit Climbs run on a regular schedule throughout the season, usually as three-day weekend trips, and are open to the public with minimal prerequisites. He is an IFMGA certified guide and has completed numerous rock and ice routes at a high standard Contact the American Alpine Institute American Alpine Institute has moved! We've given up our old houses in Fairhaven and moved to a larger space off Northwest Ave. Locations include Washington state, British Columbia The goal of this expedition is to climb the Southwest Face of Alpamayo (19,411ft), one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, rising several thousand feet from the valleys below in a near-perfect pyramid of snow and ice. Learn more. Vocational Training for the Outdoor Professional Overview The American Alpine Institute has several programs that are vocational in nature and that are designed to fill in education and certificate gaps that outdoor professionals might have as climbers, mountaineers, ski patrollers, mountain rescue technicians, outdoor educators, office administrators, instructors, guides, etc. Southern Washington Volcano Climbs Group Summit Climbs Group Summit Climbs run on a regular schedule throughout the season. Reach out to shop@alpineinstitute. Together with Red Rock, Nevada, these areas form the core of our Southwest Campus, where we offer Colorado Climbing & Skiing Programs Rocky Mountain NP, the San Juan Backcountry, and Ouray Ice In Colorado, American Alpine Institute holds a concession to operate year-round in Rocky Mountain National Park, running Long's Peak ascents, guided rock climbs, and mountaineering courses. He has led programs in the Cascades, Ouray, Joshua Tree, Red Rock, Alaska, Canada, Ecuador, Chile, Argentina, and Switzerland. It is this ever Jan 17, 2020 · The following day we will travel up the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna and establish a Camp at 9,400 feet. This program provides you with the basic skills required to manage wilderness route-finding on trails, in complicated terrain or in whiteout conditions. Elias Range of southeast Alaska. The introductory program provides a baseline of skills required to access these places and then culminates in several alpine rock ascents. However, few of the great rock walls can be climbed without first crossing a glacier, and few ice ascents in the region are made without at least a little time on rock ridges or spurs. Mar 19, 2018 · The Kautz ice cliffs above the camp often shed large seracs and the ice-fall danger in the camp is high. AAI Courses that Cover this Information: Glacier Skills and Crevasse Rescue Alpinism I: Intro to Alpinism Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership: Part I The American Alpine Institute's guide training program formed the basis of the AMGA's national certification program for alpine guides, and AAI guides have played leadership roles as the designers, instructors, and examiners in the rock, alpine and ski certification courses and exams. Kathy and Mark were guides at American Alpine Institute for many years. The Institute has operated continuously in South America since 1977, longer than any other guide service, and over the years AAI guides and clients have pioneered scores of new routes and first ascents. Once the rappel is completed, the climber can simply pull the rope. E. Some consist wholly of ridge and face climbing on rock, while other ascents are entirely on snow and ice. Essentially a fixed-point belay is a lead belay directly off the anchor, as opposed to the more standard belay technique of operating a device off one's harness. Based around a series of ascents of American An introduction to crevasse rescue, together with a summary of the scenario taught by AAI instructors. Even on the easiest routes, the inability to quickly extract a fallen climber from a crevasse can be disastrous. Ignore his use of the cord on the picket. Location: Ecuadorian Andes Season: November - March Mar 30, 2021 · Mountaineering routes on Shuksan are unique in that all require a variety of skills to complete. The Institute offers a range of technical rescue courses suitable for both recreational climbers and rescue professionals. Tim Connelly The Institute offers expeditions to all the major volcanoes, including the popular Cotopaxi climb and Chimborazo extension, as well as less-traveled Antisana and Illiniza and rarely-climbed gems like El Altar. Administrative Office American Alpine Institute 4041 Home Road, Ste A Bellingham, WA 98226 Email: info@alpineinstitute. This is an intensive course pr Alpine ice, which is formed by the freeze/thaw cycles of a glacier, makes for extraordinary climbing terrain. Having a variety of gear allows me to match my equipment to the climb I'm attempting, so I can achieve maximum efficiency and effectiveness. We then put those skills to the test on student-led ascents of the challenging peaks around Boston Basin, such as Forbidden Peak and Sharkfin Tower, and on an alpine ice climb on the massive glaciers of Mount Baker. Routes require varied skills as climbers must apply glacier travel, ice climbing and moderate rock climbing skills to successfully ascend these spires. Locations include Washington state, British Columbia, California, and Colorado. Mixed & Ice Climbing: Modern Technique by Will Gadd (Mountaineers Books, 2003) Dec 18, 2017 · Water ice routes in the northeast and southwest, summer glacier ice in the Cascades, bullet-hard alpine ice in Alaska, or even the semantically challenging “snice” that forms from hardening freeze-thaw cycles in snow. The American Alpine Institute Alpine Rock Climbing program was designed to provide students with the skills needed to access this high and wild rock. Learn the basics of ice climbing in one of our introductory courses or, once you have the skills, join us for a guided winter ascent of an alpine route. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb This 4-day intermediate summit ascent and skills clinic on Mt. Baker, Washington Guided Mt. The courses listed below are held on a regular schedule in our main outdoor campuses in Washington and the Southwest, as well as in other locations. We offer custom rock climbing trips and group courses on the world-famous Cutler and Wingate sandstone formations of Indian Creek, Castle Valley, the Fisher Towers, and other desert crags. accessories—including picks, hammers, adze, head-weights, spikes, and grip spacers—allowing you to customize your tool to match any mission. At a time when most American guides provided no instruction to their participants, the founders launched a mountaineering school offering courses in ice climbing, rock climbing, glacier skills, and off-piste skiing, with a mission to grow The immense ice cap of southern Patagonia remains one of the least explored mountain areas in the world. From long scrambling routes to classic alpine rock and ice climbs and front-country cragging, the park offers everything a climber could want. The 3-day Glacier Skills course is for climbers who want to brush up on the essential skills of glacier travel. In addition to well-known peaks like Denali (Mount McKinley), the highest peak in North America, this region is home to many less well-known ranges and peaks such as Mt. Climb this beautiful volcano with the American Alpine Institute, the company that has put more people on the summit of Mt. These are entry level theory based programs that allow climbers to practice skills in a controlled setting before employing them outside. The standardized AIARE curriculum is taught on all courses for recreational winter travelers. Climbing Seminars The Mountain Center at the American Alpine Institute provides a wide array of "ground school" type programs for climbers and mountaineers of all types. C. com for any questions! AAI guide Coley Gentzel explains how to rig your own expedition sled for ski traverses and major climbs. Instructional Programs Climbing Instruction from the Mountain Skills Experts American Alpine Institute began in 1975 as a climbing school, and our core mission still stresses rigorous climbing education. Programs in the United States - Alaska The Acknowleged Alaska Range Specialists since 1980 American Alpine Institute has been guiding in Alaska since 1980. The rope is then wrapped around the bollard for the rappel. At a time when most American guides provided no instruction to their clients, the founders launched a mountaineering school offering courses in ice climbing, rock climbing, glacier skills, and off-piste skiing, with a May 30, 2022 · World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. Location: Patagonia (Argentina/Chile) Season: September-March Length: 8-days Cost: Starting at $3950 A list of the fifteen peaks in California that break the 14,000-foot barrier. Little Switzerland is an alpine playground in a grand setting. The curriculum consists of fundamental snow and ice climbing skills, a detailed treatment of all intermediate and advanced techniques, and state-of-the-art climbing methods. The dramatic, open crater allows Alpinism 1 from John Grace on Vimeo. The Institute brings the most extensive high altitude guiding record in the world to the guided expeditions with the highest success rate on Mt. Join our ski mountaineering clinic and develop the judgment and skills necessary for skiing on and ascending glaciated peaks. The Off-Season: Is There Such a Thing? In truth, the summer "climbing season" is an artificial idea build around the relative predictability of good weather. Guided Ice Climbing and Winter Ascents in the Cascades Washington is home to a great variety of ice climbing opportunities. Baker's north aspect in the summer. The standard and most commonly climbed route, and our most frequently guided climb on Denali, is the West Buttress. Flight to Denali Base Camp, Landing on the Glacier, and Preparations for the Climb The flight from Talkeetna to Base Camp takes about an hour and covers 75 air miles as we leave the lush green of the Alaskan Tundra and enter the granite and ice-filled gorges of the Alaska Range. The joint American Alpine Institute Everest climb benefits from the combined experience of two of the world's leading pioneers in high-altitude guiding. Its long season, exposed position, and quality ice pitches put it in a very select class of alpine routes. Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park Straddling the continental divide of north-central Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park is a climber's paradise. Backcountry Ski Course with Avalanche Training American Alpine Institute has a wide variety of winter programming available to teach you the skills you need to travel through the untracked backcountry. It is the only course available anywhere that addresses the techniques required for team-rescue as well as those needed for self-rescue. The course includes crevasse rescue, rope team travel, navigation, self arrest, and cramponing. The American Alpine Institute Mountain Center in Bellingham runs monthly half-day programs in the fall, winter and spring seasons on crevasse rescue and self-rescue. The American Alpine Institute offers a flexible program that includes seven days of skiing or riding, while exploring several different backcountry and sidecountry venues in Hokkaido. If you’re a mountaineer and have wanted to expand your climbing horizons to include alpine ice ascents, like the Kautz Glacier on Mt Rainier shown in the first picture, then look no further than our Alpine Ice Climbing course! Ice Climbing - All Programs Group and Private Courses, Guided Ice Climbing, and Custom Trips AAI offers a variety of ice climbing courses and guided ice climbing for individuals and groups, from beginner to expert. These AAI's waterfall ice climbing programs in Ouray, Colorado; Lee Vining, California; and Washington state. This active, though dormant, volcano is a magnificent climbing objective, with gentle glacier routes, steep alpine ice climbs, and challenging, friable rock ribs and sub-summits. From the base of our route at 11,100 feet, we face a rather spectacular beginning: a 2000-foot couloir of 45 to 55-degree snow and ice. All-women courses offer a powerful opportunity for women to build mountain skills with other like-minded women. Online Rentals Backcountry Ski Package (Skis, Boots, Poles, Skins) Black Crows Orb Freebird (155cm, 161cm, 167cm, 173cm, 179cm) Black Crows Camox Freebird (157cm, Introductory courses in alpine mountaineering, rock-climbing, ice-climbing, and high-alititude climbing. Many guides are beginning to employ these techniques on ice climbs and on sketchy alpine climbs. This six-day introduction to mountaineering program provides fit novice climbers with an exceptional instructional experience deep in the heart of the Cascades. Rock Climbing: All Programs Group Courses, Guided Rock Climbs, and Custom Programs AAI offers a wide variety of rock climbing courses and guided climbs for individuals and groups, from beginner to expert. AAI also offers nationally recognized programs in wilderness and glacier skiing, avalanche hazard assessment, and technical rescue. Crevasse Rescue Courses AAI Introductory Mountaineering Courses that Include Crevasse Rescue Instruction Crevasse rescue is a mandatory skill for all mountaineers. Location: Hokkaido, Japan Season: December - March Length: Varies Cost: $637 per person, per day for 1 - 3 people Crossing the Argentiere Glacier. The Canyon is an excellent place to learn to climb, advance your skills, push into multi-pitch terrain, or combine all of these things into one highly Credit card required for all rentals. Sierra Alpine Ice Climbing Alpine ice persists year-round in many shaded couloirs and gullies in the high Sierra. The route is typically climbed in the spring, but can also be done in the winter if the avalanche conditions are stable enough. AMGA Alpine Guide The Alpine Guide Certification is designed for people who guide glaciated and non-glaciated peaks, approaches and climbs, with no limitation with respect to season and elevation. If you are already an experienced climber, your guide can lead you up challenging Mt. Dec 4, 2015 · It is ‘simply’ a perfectly-balanced, fine-tuned, high-quality ice climbing machine. But life, or rather, the weather, often enjoys performing a little vaudeville routine just to remind you that control is an illusion. Climbing Expeditions - North America Expeditions in the Remote Ranges of Alaska and Canada The remote ranges of Alaska and British Columbia offer some of the most rewarding expedition climbing objectives in the world. These programs offer a cost-effective way to try out mountaineering, learn or brush up on basic climbing skills, and summit a mountain of your dreams. The goal of this expedition is to traverse an eastern portion of the southern Patagonia Ice Cap then ascend Gorra Blanca in the process. Alpinism 2 - Intermediate Mountaineering Overview This program is designed for climbers who have participated in an introductory level mountaineering course or who have a similar level of skill and climbing experience. Mar 14, 2024 · American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog Thursday, March 14, 2024 Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 3/14/24 Northwest: --560 KPQ is reporting that, "A Leavenworth resident and forecaster for the Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC) is dead after a climbing accident along Icicle Road late last week. Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb AMTL 3 Curriculum Courses Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 3a Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 3b Aid Climbing and Big Wall Techniques AMTL 4 Feb 23, 2015 · "Shank" is a term that historically has referred to a metal bar running the length of the boot sole to add stiffness. Click on a question to jump to an in-depth answer below. Location: Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Season: Year-round Length: 2 days and up Cost Nearly all mountaineers practice crevasse rescue at some level. Jul 15, 2008 · -- Here is a short video on how to place an ice axe as a deadman. Denali West Buttress - Virtual Tour South Side Route Overview American Alpine Institute guides three routes on Denali, at 20,310 feet (6190 meters) the highest peak in North America. Baker Climbs with American Alpine Institute At 10,780 feet, Mt. From water ice in the Alps, new lines in the Alaska Range, or technical mixed climbing, the Hydra tool accepts a full suite of I. Learn expedition climbing skills and alpine mountaineering in Alaska. May 10, 2016 · A PAIR OF HYBRID ICE AXES/TOOLS: Are you going to be approaching on a glacier, and then climbing a 50-70 degree alpine ridge? Will there be short sections of steep ice, or will you have to climb moderate rock with your tools? If so, these are an excellent choice which bridge the gap between true ice tools and glacier axes. Whether you ski, ride, or walk, take the AIARE Rec 1 program to gain essential planning and decision-making skills for backcountry winter travel. Rock-climbing instruction for all ability levels. Women's Climbing & Mountaineering Programs Overview AAI is proud to offer a variety of women's climbing and mountaineering programs, including women's rock climbing clinics, mountaineering courses, and guided summit climbs. Like Nov 15, 2021 · There has been a lot of talk in the industry lately about fixed-point belay techniques. The introductory courses listed below, from 3 to 12 days in length, all contain a full practical crevasse rescue Aug 7, 2025 · World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. Trad & sport climbing, lead climbing, aid and big-wall techniques, and advanced clinics. Ice Climbing - Private Guided Climbs Ice, Mixed, and Winter Climbing with the Ice Experts Climbing ice with an American Alpine Institute guide is a uniquely enriching experience. Click on the link to return to the main page for American Alpine Institute's guided Denali climb. Feb 24, 2025 · I was hellbent on ice climbing tomorrow—the sort of plan that makes you feel competent and rugged, as though you’ve hacked life better than most people who cower under fleece blankets at the first sign of winter. Excellence in guiding since 1975. The guide brings With a mission "to provide world class mountain education, exceptional guided experiences and to inspire natural preservation," the American Alpine Institute (AAI) operates in six states and in Feb 24, 2022 · World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. Programs include both alpine ice and waterfall ice. Baker Skills and Climb This 3- or 4-day guided climb of Mt. The profiled pick and perfect head weight make it the best tool for thin ice where it penetrates aggressively with minimal impact on the ice. The American Alpine Institute is proud to offer a variety of scholarships and other assistance opportunities to help people in various stages of their development as climbers, skiers, and outdoorspeople. The high elevation and cold temperatures of the area bring about winter conditions much earlier than other destinations in the US and cause them to linger Notes: This route is among the most aesthetic alpine ice routes in the North Cascades, and is one of "The AAI Fifty", our list of 50 classic climbs. The American Alpine Institute can offer any group course as a private program. In the Advanced Mountain Rescue course, we will look at some specific problems with high-end crevasse . Ice climbing classes for all ability levels, beginner through advanced, including both alpine ice and waterfall ice. Each course may May 9, 2022 · In hard frozen snow or on ice, one option is to create a bollard. At a time when most American guides provided no instruction to their participants, the founders launched a mountaineering school offering courses in ice climbing, rock climbing, glacier skills, and off-piste skiing Feb 23, 2024 · This was the first course ever offered by the American Alpine Institute. Alpine Ice Climbing - Introduction Overview This is an intensive course providing comprehensive instruction in the problems met and skills required for difficult alpine ascents. The skills training allows even novice climbers to access these beautiful alpine summits. 5 days ago · World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. Shuksan. Whitney, and Joshua Tree In California, American Alpine Institute holds permits to operate in the Eastern Sierra Nevada, including Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous United States, and in Joshua Tree National Park. St Programs in the United States - California The Sierra Nevada, Mt. Every route requires glacier travel, snow climbing, ice climbing and rock climbing to reach the top. Mar 18, 2022 · To attach the ice axe, one must slide the shaft down into one of the loops with the pick facing in toward the center of the pack. Location: North The Learn to Lead program introduces climbers to the techniques required for leading single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes, while advancing technical and movement skills. Baker than all of the other Alpinism 2 - Intermediate Mountaineering This course provides a thorough introduction to alpine rock climbing at a moderate standard. The American Alpine Institute's Avalanche Course instructors are trained and qualified by the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) and/or by the American Avalanche Institute. Apr 5, 2019 · The Triple Couloirs Route is a classic alpine snow and ice route, with even a little mixed climbing thrown in for good measure. A Quiver of Ice Axes By definition, as an alpinist, I encounter extremely varied terrain and conditions during my mountain adventures. "3/4 shank" boots are softer fore-to-aft and hike and climb rock better than boots with a full shank but do not climb water ice or steep alpine ice very well. It includes rock climbs, peak ascents, waterfall ice climbs, and expeditionary climbing. If you Specialties: Spreading The Spirit of Alpinism since 1975 For more than 40 years, the American Alpine Institute has pioneered technical climbing education in the United States. 14 days. It was first run in 1975 and has run every year since. The American Alpine Institute teaches this skill in a variety of different courses. American Alpine Institute Spreading The Spirit of Alpinism since 1975 For half a century, American Alpine Institute has pioneered technical climbing education in the United States. Accidents in North American Mountaineering is available to buy from the American Alpine Club and a variety of retailers, and is delivered each year to members of the club along with the American Alpine Journal. These programs offer a cost-effective way to try out alpine climbing, learn or brush up on basic skills, and summit a mountain of your dreams. This article by former AAI guide Coley Gentzel explains what it takes to get fit for high-altitude climbing with AAI. The potential for climbing in the area is great, and the American Alpine Institute offers a full range The Alpine Institute often sends out additional instructors and guides to summit-oriented programs in this time of the year in order to help manage these challenging conditions. Guided Ice Climbing in the Eastern Sierra Accessible from Sacramento, Reno, Lake Tahoe and Las Vegas, Lee Vining Canyon and the June Lake area in the Eastern Sierra provides some of the finest steep water ice climbing in North America. Guided Alpine Climbing in the Sierra Overview What John Muir called "the most divinely beautiful of all the mountain ranges" still holds the same allure and beauty in the eyes of many modern climbers, whether they are drawn to ascents on pure rock, snow, or ice, or those media in combination. Sometimes this means buying two of something that seemingly perform the same task, however may have slightly different These skills include: General mountaineering skills such as ice-axe use and self-arrest, French crampon technique, and glacier travel practices Alpine rock climbing and ice climbing at a moderate difficulty level High-altitude and cold-weather mountaineering, camp fortification, and use of ladders and fixed lines. Courses on Mt. Everest. Many of these programs dovetail together and you can flow from one into another with minimal down-time. May 17, 2010 · Wait, our ice season isn't over in the North Cascades! If I went out and climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker I could get a ton of ice climbing in during the summer season! It's a good thing our Alpine Ice courses take people to the North side and climb that route. The potential for climbing in the area is great, and the American Alpine Institute offers a full range The immense ice cap of southern Patagonia remains one of the least explored mountain areas in the world. The following questions and answers about the Denali West Buttress route and American Alpine Institute's Denali program have been compiled over the years by our program coordinators and guides. Home of the prestigious Guides Choice Equipment Testing Program. "Full shank" boots are very stiff longitudinally and are appropriate for water ice and steep alpine ice climbing. In this photo it is possible to see that the ice axe's pick is facing toward the center. Bollards are not the strongest anchors available, but they are quick and effective. Location: Washington - AAI Mountain Center Season: Year-Round Accident reports constitute a rich trove of case studies that climbers can use to amplify the value of their real-life climbing experience. Part 2 develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. Guided Ice Climbing & Winter Ascents in Rocky Mountain National Park Overview Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), straddling the Continental Divide, encompasses hundreds of winter climbs and thousands of skiable acres for any ability level. Selling high-quality rock, ice, and expedition climbing gear and clothing for over 25 years. We spend one day in an easily accessible rock climbing area, and five days learning and applying the skills of glacier travel and snow and ice climbing. Mt. As leaders in the outdoor industry, we understand that accessing the mountains and mountain education is a challenge for many people. The American Alpine Institute offers a wide array of custom rock and ice climbing, skiing, mountaineering and high-angle rescue training options for government and military officials. Joining a recent trip to climb Ecuador volcanoes was AAI guide Scott Schumann, and he has written the following account of his experiences. The American Alpine Institute Technical Rope Rescue Comprehensive is the most complete rope rescue course offered in the United States. The rewards range from rich cultural experiences, great hikes, and aesthetic landscapes, to excellent food, beautiful haciendas, instruction in glacier climbing skills, an ideal introduction to high altitude climbing, high quality snow and ice climbing, and amazing summit views (from the Amazon Basin to the Pacific lowlands). If you are a beginner, you can expect patient and focused instruction by the most highly-trained climbing instructors in the country. National Accreditation Reviewers have Nov 20, 2023 · Selling high-quality rock, ice, and expedition climbing gear and clothing for over 25 years. The Kautz route wanders over multiple glaciers, and up through rock and ice to the 14,411-foot summit of the highest glaciated volcano in the lower 48 states, and Washington's highest peak Michael oversees the training and continuing education of climbing, mountaineering and ski guides at the Institute and manages the annual three-week guide training program. Our women's trips are led by our highly trained and The American Alpine Institute (AAI) is a climbing school and guide service that accepts veterans benefits for core mountaineering and climbing education programs. Takes place on Mt. com Phone: (360 Climbing Expeditions - South America The Andes - The Highest Mountain Range in the Western Hemisphere The Andes, more than any other range outside the United States, are AAI's specialty. Take this course to raise your skills to the intermediate level while climbing a series of spectacular North Cascades alpine summits such as South Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell, Eldorado Peak, and Mt. You can see that if the straps that hold it in place were to fail, the axe would not fall off. Aug 7, 2025 · World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. Ecuador - Cotopaxi Skills Expedition Climb high altitude volcanoes in Ecuador! This program offers mountaineers two days of skills training before ascents of Cayambe (18,997 ft/5790m) and Cotopaxi (19,348 ft/5897m) by way of classic snow and ice routes. Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership (AMTL) Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. Baker (Koma Kulshan) is for novice mountaineers who have limited time, but would like to experience the thrill of ascending immense glaciers to the mountain's 10,781-foot summit. You bring your enthusiasm, your skills, and your goal, whether it be a summit, a day of rock-climbing, or a ski traverse -- or virtually anything else you might want to do in the mountains. -- Here is a short video on the use of a picket in a vertical placement. One of my favorite things to teach, in fact, is ice climbing. The view from the summit of Shuksan is one of the best in the Comprehensive personal equipment list for guided expeditions on Denali. All routes end at the dramatic summit pyramid, which by its easiest route requires primarily fourth class with a few 5th class moves. Lyle Haugsven gallery Backcountry Ski Course with Avalanche Training American Alpine Institute has a wide variety of winter programming available to teach you the skills you need to travel through the untracked backcountry. Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced level course and climbs. Once at the camp, climbers drop down to the Kautz Backcountry Navigation Essentials The Backcountry Navigation Essentials course is a three-hour introductory course for those who spend time in the wilderness both on and off-trail. Location: Khumbu Himalaya, Nepal American Alpine Institute operates in Utah's Moab area from September through May. These four-hour ground-school programs are $95 each or $170 together. We operate throughout Denali National Park and Preserve, both on Denali proper (formerly known as Mt. The course provides a complete introduction to off-trail alpine travel and to all the fundamental skills of rock, snow, and ice climbing. The short trek up to Camp Hazard must be done quickly to avoid ice-fall. It's time pack up, head out, and get on some ice! Recommended Reading: Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher by Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston (Mountaineers Books, 2004). , right off I-5, with an expanded equipment shop, classroom space, and plenty of free parking. A bollard is essentially a tear-drop shaped pillar that is cut into a frozen surface with an ice axe adze. In its early years AAI was best known for its leadership in alpine guiding, but since the early '80's, the Institute's programming has given equal importance to rock, snow, ice, glacier, and high altitude climbing. Spreading The Spirit of Alpinism since 1975 For half a century, American Alpine Institute has pioneered technical climbing education in the United States. wdsttn atoieg ohhi oncyx qkml lbwu wyimg gqtjni hscqq fpfqv