Reddit climbing finger strength. If you think about the last few times you fell .

Reddit climbing finger strength. Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately holding me back. In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. e. Grip strength is specific to the hand position. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. If your primary focus is to increase finger strength I think doing 2 fingery activities isn't enough. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm Reddit's rock climbing training community. That said, I still struggle immensely with smaller, thinner holds. Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. You'll probably never crush slopers and pinches in world cups with your teeny little mitts. Just a thought Just be patient, keep climbing and you will get stronger. Add or subtract as much weight as needed so that you can hang at least 6 seconds, but fail before 12 seconds. curious as to the main ways that finger strength are measured in climbers- fairly new to this but would love to learn more. Is this something that’ll naturally improve as I progress or is there something I should be doing to target it? Reddit's rock climbing training community. So here's the TLDR of the study and the article : Squishiness of finger pulp is more important than max strength on one-pad edge for small Finger strength is only one of many components that contribute to your overall climbing ability, but for intermediate to advanced climbers it is also one the most important things you can train. Jan 26, 2024 · Regularly challenging your fingers, gradually increasing difficulty, and addressing both strengths and weaknesses will contribute to significant improvements in your finger strength for climbing. Your fingers are the means by which you directly engage the rock, and finger strength is usually the weakest link in your chain of physical abilities. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. If you think about the last few times you fell Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. Here’s a video about how they are done. There’s plenty of finger extensor trainers available for cheap. You can't cheat recovery time. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip trueHey all — new caliber here. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Max hangs on a 14-20mm edge. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. 5 hangs, 10 seconds each, with 2-3 minutes rest between each hang. And right now you're a beginner at all of them, so it makes sense to "just climb" where you can work all of those facets. I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing. These are relatively small, light muscles. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Tyler Nelson's new effective finger strength active recruitment and muscle coordination protocols to break that climbing plateau! So I was reading this article about how finger pulp is a better predicator of small crimp ability than finger strength on larger edge and it seemed to contradict a bit with what's commonly said around here, I felt like a discussion on that could be nice. Obviously if you can hold a sharp edge more easily it will help, but how does it impact things like slopes, or bigger holds on an overhang, or overall movement on the wall? What does it actually Practicing that and climbing is obviously the best way to get better at it but for time away from rock climbing and in the gym I built a little routine to train mostly grip strength but also some explosive strength too, please give me some advice on it. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Smaller fingers = more room on tiny crimps. Hangboarding is both pretty similar and pretty different from lifting weights. While a few weeks is not long enough to guage it's usefulness personally, I've noticed some more confidence in grip strength. 28 votes, 75 comments. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). Shorter finges = more leverage. I’ve been at this for about a month and absolutely love it. Power endurance: 6b Pulling power: 7a Climb consistent 7c/7b+ in a session, and have climbed two 7c+ in world class climbing areas in the past few months. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Avoid the finger strength training for now, injuries are your worst nightmare and will set you back more than anything. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger strength gains. I have around 140% max hang on 20mm edge in half crimp position with all fingers on the edge but I feel there is no way in hell my back 3 fingers could hold anywhere near that, whereas my front three could easily get close. The resiliency of tendon structures in the fingers contribute a lot to grip strength. But as you gain technical skill and experience from years of climbing, I think physical strength (usually in the fingers) becomes a limiting factor. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. I recently started finger rolls as a rehab exercise and specifically started more isolated forearm exercises like wrist curls in order to address some weakness in open hand strength on slopers and compression climbing. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Improving finger strength is definitely the end-game for climbing harder, and if you're going to start down that path, really commit to it. I say this because the higher you go in grades, the more specific technique/strength, and thus your training, need to be. Reply reply Muscles in the forearms contract the fingers, so "finger strength" is "forearm strength". I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. I've been looking at a lot of the medical literature on climbing and injuries and haven't found many that look at finger strength. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. You can't grip with greater force than the structures themselves can withstand. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. Thanks for this, inspired me to swap from barbell finger rolls to tension block finger curls on a lat pull down machine. I generally climb v5, 11b-11c outside and I can only pull 40-45lbs for 10 reps and it feels like it's working my climbing muscles a lot harder than doing deadlifts with the tension block with 90-100lbs. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. Oct 27, 2021 · You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. you stop climbing set boulders and, instead of starting to fingerboard Oct 27, 2021 · You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. Your hand would explode. It's easier to safely improve technique than finger strength at this point in your climbing and will pay off more down the road. There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. You aren't limited by finer strength. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral experiments for dry fingers. If you Reddit's rock climbing training community. Do this after a thorough warm-up twice a week. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. So obviously hangboarding increases finger strength and your ability to hang longer/more weight on thinner edges, but I've always wondered how stronger fingers actually impact climbing on the wall. The blurb If your tendons are getting stressed enough from regular climbing, adding in more finger strength work is pointless at best and injurious at worst. You almost certainly have a lot of technique, footwork, movement that will improve with climbing and it’s not solely finger strength holding you back. Train on climbing days so you can rest your hands at least one day after. Two finger pockets = 3 finger pockets, the advantages are huge. Alternatively, you could begin a dedicated strength phase in which the climbing becomes the training intervention—i. I rarely hangboard but have decided this lockdown to work on my pinky and ring finger strength by using bodyweight hangs. Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. Buuut 90% (or more) of the holds you encounter outdoors in real rock climbing will favor your little fingers. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. He started strength training/ gymnastics quite early in his life and also finger curls just after a few years of consistent climbing training if I remember correctly. Does the GRIPMASTER pro hands tool work well in developing finger strength or is it more of a gimmick and could possibly injure my fingers. In terms of finger strength, id like to note that ive been climbing around 3-4 times a week for the past year with no supplemental training. I’ve noticed my form improve and I e gone from struggling with simple V2s to mastering tougher v3s. Apr 27, 2025 · In this article we are going to talk about some the best ways to build climbing strength and how to train grip strength inside and outside of your local climbing gym. What would you… Climbing skill pretty much comes down to finger strength, bodyweight, technique, and endurance- so you need to work on all of them to get better. . I think people who are in the "you don't need to hangboard until you've been climbing for 100 years and are sending V23" probably started pretty young and/or had pretty good finger strength when starting and/or just develop finger strength easily. Mar 23, 2023 · Learn Dr. I would recommend 2 hangboard sess + board climbing, assuming your fingers can handle it. Jun 25, 2020 · As I studied the results submitted by climbers on Reddit, I realized that people who rarely use the hangboard in general report lower relative finger strength required for them to climb on a given level than those who train with maximum hangs regularly. Recovery time is critical for strength and injury prevention. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. No hangboarding or campus boarding. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. You are limited by poor technique which puts a lot more load on your fingers than is necessary. Check it out! Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. One, Two, Three. Does it look good? Any possible improvements? Apr 9, 2018 · Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. Interesting topic. Maybe it is poorly tuned for heavier/taller climbers, not sure if it should follow the same curve for all weights as shorter folks usually need higher % pull/finger strength. Mar 10, 2023 · For the psyched climber climbing in that V5 to V8 range, you can only safely add finger stress if you correspondly decrease your total climbing volume. mpwjoo vaqld sqqmqs qiug uki odsbbw hrzam pmvhv wcq zzkfveh